"Kodama Shicen Studio" introduces the attraction of the Kyoto traditional craft, Nishijin (Tsuzure Weaving) Obi.

Treads

<Our threads>
Threads which are called "moroyori" are used for tsuzure weaving.
It is 630 to 756 denier, which is thicker than usual threads for kimono or obi.
Our threads are all made in Japan, including precious threads, "shin koishimaru". We use each threads as usage.

Dyeing

<Dyeing>
When we need to dye large amount of threads, or dye them with chemical dye, we order to a reliable dyeing factory.
But when we dye small amount of threads, or seek for sensitive colors' threads, we dye them with plants or natural materials in our studio.

Preparing warp threads

<Spinning>
Wrap warp threads around the wooden frame.

In Nishijin, they have specialists for each process such as spinning, warping, beaming, because of subdivision of the process.
But our stuff have been trained to be able to do every process.

<Warping 1>
Prepare the threads wrapped around wooden frame for warping.

<Warping 2>
Wind the threads (the length of obi × the number of threads for the width of obi) from the wooden frame onto a warping board.

<Tying Warp>
Tie the threads left on the loom to the warping threads individually with sheet bend knots.

We dip both ends of threads into water to tie them tightly.
Don't dip kinari thread for "ro" into water.

<Beaming 1>
Wind the warp threads onto backward.

This process needs 2 people.
One squats behind the loom. And winds on, while inserting "hatkusa" (cardboard).

<Beaming 2>
The other stands up in front of the loom, and passes those threads backward.
At this point, grasp the warp threads firmly to keep an even tension.

<Beaming 3>
Since threads are tensioned strongly, put the warp threads on the warp beam, using some glue.

Design

<Design>
After drawing patterns in outline, color them with colored pencil.

At Kodama Shicen Studio, Kodama Shicen designs almost all patterns. In certain cases, we modify patterns or change colors for customer's requests.

Preparing weft threads

<Weft threads>
Choose color threads.

If we have no proper color threads, we dye threads ourselves, or order to the reliable dyeing factory.

Wind a bobbin with weft thread, and put it into a shuttle.

Weaving

<Weaving>
Tsuzure weaving is a kind of plain weaving.

At the beginning of weaving process, fasten the width by putting a bamboo stick between threads.

<Plain weaving>
Step "fumiki" alternately by right foot and left foot. Then the warp threads will be divided up and down.
Insert the shuttle between those threads in only one hand, and catch the shuttle in the other hand.
After that, pull "kamachi" (thing grabbed by the left hand on the picture) until hearing a popping sound.
Tsuzure weaving needs "tukidashi” of about 34°.

<Pattern weaving>
Wind a bobbin with small amount of color threads into a shuttle,and then scoop some warp threads.
And weave carefully not to make boundary lines between the pattern weaving and the plain weaving stand out.
It requires proficiency to weave beautifully without bumps of boundary lines.
It sometimes takes a full day to weave 1 or 2 cm, when weaving detailed pattern.

Final Processing

<Inspection>
Inspect the completed item for defects.
And then measure it by weight and length.
Finally, write down the lot number and the title of the product on the tag.
(There is a lot number on every Kodama Schicen's work after independce.)

<Examination>
After inspection, undergo examination of NISHIJIN TEXTILE INDUSTRIUL ASSOCIATION to get its certification.

Tailoring

<Tailoring>
Put the tailored obi in the paulownia box.

Completion

<In the Paulownia box>
The products tailored by our studio are put into the paulownia box.

We attach the certification mark and maintenance note to the backside of the box cover.

<Top of the box>
Kodama Schicen writes the title down on the cover wholeheartedly.

Finally, completed.